Wet v/s Dry Sump?

What are the advantages of dry sump lubrication system, and what are the implications of converting from wet to dry sump?
Lower Centre of Gravity
More oil capacity means less strain on oil cooling system
No oil surge
Free's up 3 - 4 hp

Expensive, a oil tank, piping, new sump and a scavenge pump needed, all pricey items.
Thanks SS.

What about lower cylinder / piston lubrication, which is via splash in wet sump?
Splash or windage is something you really do not want at all. Its cause of the lack of windage that you do get a few HP more. The 20v's have a windage tray as stock and we install on in the VW motors to prevent the crank of anything other part actually running in oil. All the lubrication needed is done via the internal oil pump via the oil channels.

If the scavange pump is working 100% there is never any oil lying in the lump of a dry sumped motor, its all either in the motor or in the oil tank.

On the Shelby's Can-Am's we had to make up our own dry sump system, it does not work perfectly but will enough, we run 12L of oil in the system!
http://www.drysump.com/pan20.htm fits 4AGE 16 and 20V. Check out the rest if Gary's site for some more info.
In Lotus Challenge Class B we we use a modified sump and oil pick-up on the 20v Toyota which as you know is the controlled engine for this class.

The sump is a little shallower and wider with baffles and "Trap door" system. This allows for increased ground clearance without loosing oil capacity. It also prevents oil surge.

To date this has proven to be very successful at a fraction of the cost of dry sump system which by the way is not allowed in Class B. (To keep costs down).

You can contact Ken Cloud for a modified sump.
Holy moley! That dry sump pan (in the linky in Bryn's post) costs more than you would pay for a 20V motor!

If you guys in Getagun have somebody who has worked out igzackerly how to produce a modded sump, rush on over, press money into his left hand while shaking his right hand warmly, and offer to buy him a beer!

Yes, I had issues getting my modded sump to my satisfaction. Does it show?
Or mod the sump yourself.
Muller did that for the LoCost build. Took two nights and LOTS of welding but it works, it does not leak and there is no oil surge.
So if it took two nights and LOTS of welding what do you think is a fair price to pay a company to make a dry sump pan for you?
Hang on, it seems this thread is going off in two different directions....I see two different points appearing:

1) how to / who can mod a stock sump to retain the wet sump system but create more ground clearance while not creating a surge problem, and:

2) creating a sump auitable for dry sump use. (which is only about 20% of the problem, see below)

The two outcomes here will be very different.

For 1) above, chuck the thing in a box and send it to Ken Cloud. He's done many and I haven't heard any knocking bearings around the class B cars. You can't run dry sump in Class B anyway as Derek said.

for 2) if you are still contemplating modifying a stock sump for dry sump use, and you really LIKE spending money then good luck, dunno who can help locally with the sump. There will be someone though, or Gary Armstrong at drysump.com is very happy to take your cash!

Besides the cost of the sump / pan, you need a nice pump (for which you must still fabricate a mounting bracket for it to mount securely on the block), hectically modified front pulley to drive your nice pump, nice hoses, nice tank, nice fittings. Budget? LOTS, depending on your technical resources and how "nice" you want it to be. Are you cured of dry-sumps yet unless you REALLY KNOW you want / need one? There will be precious little on the 2nd hand market too cos those who took the plunge some time back are very attached to them.


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